We had a successful trip to the top of Albertas highest peak 3741 m. It is a long slog with a lot of elevation gain and some hazards due to seracfall and creavasses.
We got lucky with the weather, I have never had such a stretch of perfect days like this before.
Josh had tried this mountain before 5 times and had been turned away due to changing weather conditions or out of shape partners. It was the 1st try for Greg and I.
After about 11hours skiing we made camp on the far side of the trench. The night was warm and daylight lasted until 11 pm. The day dawned at 445 am and it took us a while to get going due to general laziness.
More uptracks finally led us to the bergshrund where we ditched the skis. The lower face is maybe 40 or so degrees and steepens to 50 or so. We were 2 hours form the 'shrund to the top.
The snow was firm on the way up but nasty, soft and slushy coming down. We tried to glissade down but it turned into a post hole nightmare.
Finally back to the skis and we had a nice 4km downhill to the bivy. Took a siesta, packed up and a long slog out. About 15 hrs on the second day.
Josh hurt his knee on the way out and if he stopped to rest it seized up so he took off down solo. He caught a ride back on the snowcoach glacier bus full of Japanese tourists that peppered him with questions. Stinky, sunburned with raccon eyes, limping , he went for a beer at the lodge and some tourist asked if he was an alcoholic bum. haha a fitting end.
Tuesday, June 27, 2006
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