Mt. Robson and Athabasca 8/8/06

Josh and I planned to try Mt. Robson via the Patterson Couloir and Kain Face. We had 5 days of food and fuel but things started off badly and we decided to retreat and wait for another time. Our packs were around 30 pounds so not too heavy which was a good thing since the hike up to the hut turned out to be a total bushwhack grunt. From the guide book we knew it wasn't going to be a walk in the park but really didn't expect to fight for almost every vertical foot.
After finally getting clear off the trees we proceeded to get off route by following the most well worn trail that led to nowhere, well nowhere except some flagging that led to nowhere. After spending several hours trying to get past a slab for which we only had a few tricams for we decided to go and try the Berg lake route.
On the way down we took a peak at another way that turned out to be the correct route. Up the chains we went and made good progress but when we took a rest break we decided that it just didn't feel right to be where we were and turned around.
The good thing about a bushwack is that its a lot easier to go down. Just grab a fistful of alder and float down from bush to bush. 2 hours later we were back at the bikes and 15 min. after that back at the parking lot.
Next day we decided to go try Mt. Athabasca. After getting some sleep we set off for the Silverhorn route. Intially we made great time until the route turned into class 3 ice for which I really wasn't prepared for. Josh led and got me through and up but I didn't enjoy myself at all and just wanted to get off it and down. Anyway we summited and skated scree back down the AA col and glacier and hitched a ride back on the sno coach full of tourists.

The bikes were no faster than walking on the way up but sweet on the way down.

Happy to leave the bikes at Kinney lake.

It was a relief to stop bushwhacking even for a moment.

I discovered my fresh skookum flat bread had gone moldy. I tossed it.

Rapping down after we decided to give up and go down and try the berg lake route. We then discovered the correct route...

Josh coming back over the mud gully that crosses the actual route. Go left at the rock band after the bushwhack to find the chains. Do not follow the well trodden and most obvious trail that goes right and traverses beneath the rock band.

Climbing the elusive chains.

A lot of air underfoot.

On the bridge too tired to organize the rope.

Burnt out.

NIce day all around except for the summit.

Normal route slants left under the seracs.

Laughing at the busload of Japanese tourists that just disgorged.

Hang loose man.

We followed the dog track up. Another party is just below the seracs about 1/3 of the way up the face.

North glacier icefall.

Early morning shot of the upper glacier.

We made good time up to the ramp.

There is a nice snowbrigde across the bergshrund.

We hustled past the bergshrund.

Tracks leading to the North face.

North face right side.

North face.

Josh the flyin Hawaiian.

The lower face.

Would have been a good photo if my feet weren't cut off.

We followed another party up.

I was past my limit going up the serac bulges and started to hyperventilate.

We needed to get off the face as the sun was starting to come around to it.

There was a lot of diagonal moves to find the best route.

A bit of scrambling to finish the ridge.

Up the wide summit ridge.

Josh on top of his 4th 11,000er of the summer.

Mind the cornice J.

Now I just wanted to get down.